Discover Busan’s first Michelin-starred restaurants

South Korea’s most popular seaside city, Busan, is beginning to gain recognition as a culinary hotspot. This beachside metropolis of 3.5 million people is renowned nationwide for its fresh seafood and signature pork soup, dwaeji gukbap, but now, a new generation of restaurateurs are determined to put Busan on the map as a world-class fine-dining destination. 

The availability of fresh fish and other great local ingredients is key to Busan’s offering. Combine this with talented homegrown chefs and stunning views of either the ocean or the mountains and you have the recipe for some truly exceptional restaurants. What’s more, the city has finally caught the attention of some big players located outside of Korea, including Michelin, which launched a Seoul and Busan guide in 2024, incorporating 43 of Busan’s restaurants, three of which received stars.

This stamp of approval from the exclusive culinary guide has been a welcome gust of wind in the sails for Busan’s up-and-coming chefs, a recognition of the years of hard work and inventiveness necessary to carve out a place among the world’s leading restaurants. For the best taste of the city’s creative culinary offerings, check out the three recipients of Michelin stars featured in the 2024 guide. 

While chef Kim Jaehoon was born and raised in Busan, it’s in Sydney that he gained his expertise. “I picked this space because it reminds me of Sydney,” he says, motioning towards Gwangan Bridge, the local marina and the shimmering high-rise apartments visible through Palate’s wall of windows. “Life was tough there. I sometimes worked 18 or even 20 hours a day, and the cost of living was unbelievable.” 

Palate’s third-floor space is bright and elegant, with just a handful of tables, ensuring each guest receives Kim’s full attention. He often works as a host and server, in addition to being the mastermind behind one of Busan’s most groundbreaking restaurants. Trained in the French tradition, Kim designs his menus with a European sensibility while maintaining a connection to Korea and East Asia. This approach is evident in his Korean white radish pie, chawanmushi (Japanese steamed custard) and cocktails made from traditional mushroom liquor. “I want to share what I’ve experienced and learned through the menu,” he says. “We change things according to the time of year and put a lot of emphasis on using seasonal ingredients depending on the weather and temperature.”

Kim’s creativity and willingness to take risks may be what convinced the Michelin inspectors that Palate deserved the star distinction. While the chef is honoured by the nod, he’s also confident that this star will help expand Busan’s food scene as a whole. “Busan is a beautiful city on the sea,” he says. “People are drawn to the place, and now that Michelin has come around, I firmly believe that the local food culture will develop further over the next few years.”

Though Busan is home to plenty of Japanese restaurants, Mori stands out due to chef Kim Wan-gyu’s flair and attention to detail. His creations achieve a perfect harmony of flavours, with a deep emphasis on presentation. Each course features pleasing colours and arrangements, meaning dishes don’t just taste great, but look wonderful too.

Situated on the city’s Haeundae Beach, Mori’s second-floor location affords a view of the ocean, complementing the seafood that forms the backbone of each course. There’s no set menu, meaning each meal is a unique experience created by Kim and his wife. “We follow a monthly plan, but things can change based on the weather, what’s in season and what’s available in the market,” says Kim. “Today we have small octopus, sea cucumber, hairtail and hairy crab, but also Japanese Spanish mackerel, which suddenly becomes available because it’s now spring in Busan.” This idea of expecting the unexpected is part of what makes Mori so distinct. Visitors know whatever they order will be created with thoughtfulness, precision and expertise — part of why the restaurant earned its Michelin star.

Specialising in pasta, Fiotto allows quality ingredients to be the star of the show. Located in Mipo near the eastern end of Haeundae Beach, this restaurant, owned and operated by a husband and wife, is the only one in the city to earn two Michelin distinctions: one star for its high-quality cooking and a Green star, due to their minimal reliance on processed ingredients and their efforts to focus on a green cycle, where natural ingredients are returned to nature after use.

Much of what ends up on the table at Fiotto comes from the owners’ family’s small farm in North Gyeongsang Province. “Most of our vegetables are from the farm,” says co-owner chef Lee Dong-ho. “Many of our dishes are vegetable-based, meaning our customers will always experience the freshest and best-quality ingredients.” When the owners can’t source things directly from their family’s plot of land, they’re dedicated to keeping it local, ensuring all their rice, flour, pork and duck are sourced within a three-hour drive. “Everything is local except for the oil, butter and cheese,” says Lee. “We’re one of the only places in Busan doing farm-to-table dining, which I think is one of the reasons we attracted the attention of Michelin.” They also use fermentation techniques to make pickles, kimchi and vinegar, all of which make regular appearances on the menu.