READ MORE: The beginner’s guide to Seoul, South Korea
3. Technology makes it even easier
Download the Naver Maps app before you leave NZ. (Google and Apple maps don’t work well thanks to a stand-off between Google and South Korea’s Government about what data and location information is authorised to be stored and shared).
Naver is the main search engine used by Koreans; Naver Maps its location app, offering the best options for driving, public transport and walking. Subway directionsinclude which exit to take from the station, meaning you’ll always find yourself in the right spot.
Free Wi-Fi is widely available or, for added peace of mind, buy a roaming pack from your service provider before you leave.
4. It feels incredibly safe
Walking around unfamiliar cities can be nerve-racking but in Seoul, I never once felt unsafe or threatened, even by myself after dark. Seoul is a 24-hour city of 10 million residents so there are always people around, and even the most random alleyways are lit by the many and varied late-night food stops. This comes with the usual disclaimer of always being aware of your surroundings, and not doing anything silly, but Seoul felt like one of the safest destinations I’ve travelled to solo.
5. Korean people are friendly and helpful
Everyone I encountered was polite, respectful and helpful. The language barrier was no problem thanks to another useful app, Papago, which you can type or speak into for instant translation. Papago’s AI will also convert photographed text (menus, signs, etc) into English.
6. It’s culturally cool and getting cooler all the time
Tourism to the country is steadily growing thanks to increasing international awareness of all things K-culture, from K-drama, pop and beauty to food, fashion and award-winning movies and TV shows like Parasite and Squid Game. Dubbed “the Korean wave”, the K-cool factor shows no signs of stopping.
7. You can visit 16 Unesco world heritage sites in one country …
And there are 14 more on the tentative list. From shrines and temples, to historic villages and lava fields, the diverse list of cultural and historic sites spans much of the country.
8. … And five royal palaces in Seoul
Changdeokgung is the only Seoul royal palace on the Unesco list, but the others – Gyeongbokgung, Changgyeonggung, Deoksugung and Gyeonghuigung – are just as worthy of your time. All were built during the Joseon Dynasty, the last and longest imperial dynasty, which ruled from 1392 to 1910.
Changdeokgung is the best preserved; Gyeongbokgung is the largest and considered the most beautiful. Its expansive grounds and buildings are surrounded by modern skyscrapers, but step through its grand gates to another time. The elegant halls and pavilions are painted in vibrant colours and adorned with detailed carvings, next to tranquil lakes and willow, maple and gingko trees. Visit late October/early November to view the leaves in their autumnal finest.
You’ll see many people – Koreans and international tourists alike – in traditional hanbok dress. As well as giving a unique selfie opportunity, hiring and wearing traditional costume means free entry to the palace. Find rental shops in streets around the palace.
9. See the city from the top
Get a sense of just how sprawling the city is with a trip up the N Seoul Tower – 236m tall, on top of the already 243m Namsan mountain.
Walk up the mountain using the well-maintained stone steps within the historic city’s ancient walls, or take the cable car to save energy. Fast lifts take you to the top of the tower and on a clear day you get 360 views of the city and far beyond … including from the toilets, thanks to floor-to-ceiling windows in the cubicles.
10. Get an arts and culture fix at the DDP
The Zaha Hadid-designed Dongdaemun Design Plaza, or DDP, is an architectural spectacle, with its curving liquid-like futuristic form. In the bustling fashion district of Eulji-Ro, DDP is home to regular exhibitions, conferences, a design lab, shows and arts markets, and has a walkable park on the roof. There are free daily guided architectural tours with an English-speaking guide, although I found it near impossible to book via their website. Email [email protected] ahead of your trip and someone should be able to assist.
11. The National Museum is world-class
You could easily spend a day at the National Museum of Korea for its extensive collection of artefacts dating back to the Paleolithic period, artworks, sculptures, impressive digital immersion exhibitions, and gorgeous landscaped gardens. The museum spans three floors, has English translations of most exhibit information, and there’s a subway station within its grounds.
12. And that’s just one of the many cultural sites to see
Other impressive museums and galleries include the War Memorial of Korea, National Museum of Modern and Contemporary Art (MMCA), the National Folk Museum (within the Gyeongbokgung palace grounds), Seoul Museum of History, Leeum Museum of Art, National Museum of Korean Contemporary History, and the Seoul Children’s Museum. Check websites for opening hours – most close at least one day a week.
13. Korea’s most famous author is now a Nobel prizewinner
In October, Han Kang became the first Korean writer to win the Nobel Prize for Literature. Read Kang’s books (2016 Booker Prize-winning The Vegetarian, Human Acts and The White Book) anywhere, but only travellers to Seoul can visit her bookstore. Onulbooks is an independent store in the trendy Seochon neighbourhood, and since Kang’s win, has become a pilgrimage site for fans.
14. Seoul is not a concrete jungle
The capital city is much greener than I imagined, with peaceful parks, forest, and a gorgeous walkway alongside the Cheonggyecheon stream – a lovely, cool place to be on a hot day.
15. Find the historic housing district … but keep your voice down
Bukchon Hanok Village in Seoul’s Jongno District is one of the remaining areas of traditional hanok housing. The stunning sloping streets were home to high-ranking government officials and nobility during the Joseon period; now the houses are heritage-protected and carefully restored. Tourists flock here, which can make for a crowded walk and frustrations for locals. Signs everywhere ask visitors to respect residents, keep voices down, and only visit between 9am-5pm, Monday to Saturday. Wardens in yellow tabards dole out regular “shushes” if chatter gets too loud.
16. You can shop till you drop
Mega malls house international brands unavailable in NZ, like Uniqlo and Muji, as well as Korean fashion and lifestyle brands. Vintage and antique shoppers are well catered for at the Dongmyo and Hwanghak-dong Flea Markets. Stock up on Korean beauty products at the ubiquitous Olive Young stores (like a beauty-focused Chemist Warehouse).
If you’ve got cash to splash, Gangnam’s high-end boutiques, top restaurants, and cosmetic surgery clinics make this Seoul’s equivalent of Rodeo Drive.
17. Korea has a thriving coffee culture …
From obligatory international giants like Starbucks, to domestic chains like A Twosome Place, The Venti and Mammoth Coffee, you can satisfy a coffee craving any time of day. Caffeine hit after hours? Head to a GS25, CU, or 7-11 convenience store and pick up a chilled coffee pouch, for pouring over ice.
18. … And that’s not the only drink Koreans enjoy
Alcohol is a big part of Korean culture, whether it’s the traditional fermented rice wine soju, local beers alongside fried chicken, or elaborate concoctions at a world-class cocktail bar.
There’s also makgeolli, a lightly sparkling fermented rice wine. It’s more viscous than soju, with a funky, tangy taste – somewhere between natural wine, kombucha and a Yakult-like prebiotic. There are many variations and a booming batch of young makgeolli makers, similar to New Zealand’s craft beer scene.
Bars I tried and loved in Seoul were Per, (natural wine) and Coltrane (jazz) , both in the Chungmuro district; Namsan Sool Club in Yongsan (wines and makgeolli by the glass), and Bar Pomme and Bar Cham, award-winning cocktail bars in Jongno.
If you leave the big city and head to Gyeongju [see #25 below], track down Bar Boon, a small yet perfectly formed cocktail bar with friendly staff and an innovative drinks list.
19. You’ll never go hungry …
First things first, get a taste for the traditional, and we’re not just talking kimchi, fried chicken and barbecue.
Miyeokguk is a seaweed and beef broth soup, traditionally eaten on your birthday. Overdone it on the soju? Order haejangguk or sulguk – which translates to “soup to chase a hangover”, and comes in many variations, usually including cabbage and meat, in a rich, nourishing broth.
There’s also bulgogi (marinated sliced meat), bibimbap (a bowl of rice with vegetables, kimchi, meat or fish and condiments), jeon (savoury pancakes with kimchi or seaweed), gui (grilled meat or fish, often cooked over coals in the middle of the table), various noodle dishes, dried fish, super-sweet desserts and much, much more.
20. Snack your way through the day on street food
There are street food stalls everywhere – outside subway stations, at markets, and lining city streets and alleyways. Have some cash in your pocket and spend an afternoon eating. Must-tries include gimbap (Korea’s version of sushi), jjinmandu (steamed dumplings), twigim (similar to Japanese tempura vegetables), soondae (blood sausage), tteokbokki (spicy rice cakes), chapssaltteok (rice balls filled with red bean paste), dak gangjeong (seasoned fried chicken), kochi (food served on skewers, like grilled chicken), and hotteok (deepfried pancakes filled with honey, cinnamon, peanuts, and brown sugar. If you visit the city of Busan, look out for the local speciality version filled with black sesame, pumpkin and sunflower seeds, and caramelised sugar… decadent and delicious).
Good places to sample all of the above are Seoul’s Gwangjang market and Busan’s Gukje market , but ask your hotel or guide to recommend one near you. And if you don’t know where to start, book a food tour with a local expert who can show you the ropes.
21. Get one fresh food experience … if you dare
Look out for places serving san-nakji – where a live octopus is taken from a tank, killed and its tentacles chopped and served on a plate with sesame oil and seeds.
So far, so sedate? An octopus’ complex nervous system means its arms still squirm and writhe even when severed from its brain. Chew quickly – the suction cups have a habit of sticking to your tongue and teeth and could potentially cause a choking hazard. The taste was quite bland to my palate – definitely one for the “try once to say you’ve done it, but never again” files.
22. The modern dining scene is exceptional
If you’ve watched Netflix’s Culinary Class Wars , you’ll have some idea of the all-star chefs cooking all over Seoul. As with any fast-growing, high-tech, modern city, it’s a foodie paradise, with 177 Michelin Guide inclusions, and more than 45 restaurants with one or more Michelin stars.
23. Get out of Seoul and head to the DMZ
No visit to Korea is complete without a day trip to the Demilitarized Zone, otherwise known as the DMZ. About an hour’s drive from Seoul, you must visit with a guide. Arrive early as tickets can only be bought on site on the day of entry, and wait times can be excessive in peak season.
You’ll be allocated a tour time, transferred to a tourist coach and driven to key sites in the history of the war between North and South, including the third infiltration tunnel, Freedom Bridge, and the Dora Observatory, where you can see across to North Korea (you’re still 2km away from the border and unlikely to see any North Korean military personnel). Your passport will be checked by soldiers as you cross into the DMZ itself, and you can’t take any photos when in the active military zones. The only souvenir to take back is one purchased from the gift shop.
24. Visit the beach …
Just over two hours by bullet train from Seoul, Busan is a thriving port city of more than 3.5 million people, popular as a weekend beach break and holiday destination for Koreans.
One of its main tourist attractions is the Gamcheon Cultural Village, distinctly reminiscent of Italy’s Cinque Terre – colourful houses, clinging to mountainsides with sea views. Once a rundown shanty town, it’s been redeveloped and transformed into an arts and culture hub. Now you can wander the steep, meandering streets and stairways, past brightly painted houses, visit galleries and art exhibits, and see street art and sculptures.
At the live fish markets in Busan’s downtown area, look out for gaebul. Translated as “dog’s penis or testicle”, you’ll understand why when you see it. There’s also Dongbaek park for tranquility and coastal views, and Haeundae Beach, with a clean sweep of golden sand, gentle waves and streets of restaurants, bars and shopping.
25. … Or the former capital, full of ancient history and culture
Gyeongju was the capital of the ancient Silla Dynasty, from 57BCE to 935CE. Historical sites include Bulguksa, an ancient Buddhist temple, and the Seokguram Grotto, home to a giant stone carved Buddha, both dating back to the 8th century.
More than 200 ancient burial mounds, rising up from the ground like nondescript hills and hillocks, are dotted around the city. Careful excavation has revealed hidden treasures – the tombs of Silla kings, queens, and nobility, buried alongside their jewels, gold crowns, swords, paintings and relics. Twenty-three tombs are found within the free to enter Gyeongju Daereungwon Ancient Tomb Complex. Pay a visitor fee to see inside an excavated tomb to learn more about its construction and the secrets found inside.
In the historic town centre, traditional hanbok houses have been converted into shops, restaurants, cafes and bars and there’s a buzzy – albeit slightly touristy – vibe, day and night.
DETAILS
english.visitkorea.or.kr
Stephanie Holmes has worked for the New Zealand Herald since 2016, specialising in Travel and, more recently, Lifestyle and Entertainment, with her entire journalism career dedicated to these subjects. She travelled to South Korea courtesy of Korea Tourism Organisation but all recommendations are her own.
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